Living a day as a local in the happiest city on earth has long intrigued me. Bikes, canals, windmills and tulips… This spring, I finally got to experience it on a solo backpack trip. And Amsterdam has much more to offer.
Stepping out from the Rijksmuseum, the National Museum of the Netherlands, I hopped on a rental bike and soaked in the afternoon sunlight along the picturesque Amstel canal, blending into the daily commute of the Dutch. Craving fries, I entered a Dutch fries shop, where I encountered Rutger, a friendly-looking Dutch local.
It was a Monday afternoon, a time when many begin their week with Monday blues. Rutger greeted me with a relaxed and polite smile, and curiosity sparked inside me – how do the Dutch live their daily life?
Seated on a bench by the canal under the tender spring leaves and warm late afternoon sunlight – a scene I had long wanted to experience, Rutger told me he worked as an urban engineer, involved in building the city’s museum projects, including the one I had just visited, and its transportation system. He worked three to four days a week with more downtime and flexible schedules. Today was an ordinary day off for him, and he enjoyed strolling around the city, engaging in interesting conversations with strangers, or exploring new sights.
“You never know what you’ll see when walking,” he said. “Even on familiar streets, there’s always something new happening.”
Amsterdam is connected by bridges above beautiful, tranquil canals which never fails to captivate cyclists and pedestrians. Being one of the most cycling-friendly cities in the world where many residents have been on two wheels since infancy, cycling accounts for half of all journeys in the city centre. Bikes reign supreme here – cars and even pedestrians yield to cyclists.
With one-third of the country below sea level, the Netherlands, which means “low-lying country” in Dutch, utilised canals during their Golden Age in the 17th century to manage water and prevent flooding. Today, these canals are the veins running through the country, shaping its lifestyle to revolve around water. Walking alongside the canals and bridges is peaceful, so as is Rutger’s calm lifestyle. He often enjoyed leisurely strolls with friends along the canals after dinner, finding solace in writing short abstract fiction and immersing himself in reading – a life he describes as contented.
I ordered fries with a touristy truffle sauce while Rutger opted for the classic Dutch combination of mayo and fries. It was his childhood favourite that he used to eat four times a week. We also had kaas, a Dutch fried cheese. On our opposite side, another pair sat directly on the shore, their legs dangling in the air. The Dutch lifestyle exudes a much calmer pace compared to that of Londoners or city dwellers.
There was nothing quite as delightful as cycling alongside the canals in Amsterdam. After a leisurely 10-minute ride, I stumbled upon a Brown Cafe – a local bar with brown interior walls stained by the lingering smoke of cigarettes from days gone by.
Happiness, or a good life, really depends on mindset, attitudes, and one’s community.
As a solo traveller, the loud laughter and feverish conversations swirling around me initially felt overwhelming. Yet, this vibrant atmosphere lured me in as an authentic glimpse into local life.
Taking a seat at the bar, I ordered an apple pie – the traditional Dutch dessert – and a drink. Across from me stood the bartender, with a hard-to-approach look. Carefully, I asked him about his work – I was just too curious.
“Listen, don’t get me wrong. I like my job because it’s a family-owned business that I am working for myself. I don’t like the Asian style of work where people work from 9 am to 5 pm, five to six days a week. There is no time for myself,” he said.
As for his life, he did not dwell on the past or worry about the future. “Just focus on now, and don’t take things too seriously,” Jan, the bartender said.
It was around 10 pm and I decided to leave. But Jan told me “We can have some very meaningful conversations if you have time”.
I could sense a connection between us – we were en route to explore our own definitions of living a good life.
Stepping out onto the street, with every step I took, his words echoing in my ears – the longing for meaningful conversations burning inside me. It was my last night in Amsterdam, and I yearned to find the answer to life. Ten minutes later, I pushed the front door of the restaurant again and saw Jan’s smile.
I got a kopstootje – a traditional Dutch cocktail of a genever shot served in a tulip-shaped glass with a separate glass of beer (Amstel this time). Amazed by the separation of shots and beer, Jan told me “Drink the hot shot and cool it down with beer” – a quintessentially Dutch way of drinking.
Our discussion revolved around history, hobbies, and society. As my drink dwindled, he kindly offered me another – a shot called “Heaven and Earth,” his aunt’s favourite. Taking a sip, I savoured the sweetness that rippled across my palate, with a heavenly sensation wash over me made me instantly understand the name.
The night unfolded in typical Dutch small talk – a local custom where conversations about daily life prevail, surrounded by their exotic yet romantic Dutch pronunciation, though I could not understand a single word. When he was busy, I penned my postcard. He admired my Chinese writing as he appreciated the beauty of characters that Europeans often struggle to master.
I finished the last bit of my sweet shot when the clock moved towards 1 am. It was time for my last and long-awaited question: “Do you think Amsterdam is the happiest city?”
He did not provide a direct response. Instead, he shared his personal experience of losing his parents, overcoming challenges and embracing life’s unpredictability. He said the Netherlands has the shortest working week, meaning relatively long periods of leisure and rest, which has earned it the title of the “happiest country”. But happiness, or a good life, really depends on mindset, attitudes, and one’s community.
Dutch employment law stipulates that the maximum working hours for full-time employees are 40 hours per week. Working three days a week, he lived a simple and content life now. Every morning he savoured a nice coffee two streets away with his local and Australian friends, engaging in open-minded conversations. He viewed his life as brimming with opportunities to meet new people, explore new ideas, and encounter surprises every day.
The journey of life is filled with highs and lows, joys and sorrows. Happiness and good life have been long questioned by philosophers since ancient times and still exist as an important debate today. Living in the purported happiest country on earth does not guarantee happiness. Rather, it is the mindset and attitude one adopts in facing life’s challenges.
“Come back here again after graduation. We will celebrate for you,” were the last few words from Jan. I did not capture a photo of his face, but I would always remember his deep, intelligent eyes.
I have travelled to over 10 countries in Europe, but the Netherlands offered something different that struck me. Cycling along the scenic canals brings me peace, but it is the genuine connections with the people I meet that truly allows me to rest my soul. As such, it creates the place that a solo traveller calls home. In this enchanting city below sea level, I found life.