By Lydia Rosevere, Staff Writer
With the rise of social media-based aesthetics, ‘cores’, and micro trends, it is easy to get caught up in the culture of overconsumption. The Costume Institute’s spring exhibition, Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, with an aim to “breathe new life into stored objects,” feels like an ironic contradiction to the reality of the fashion industry, where the rise of micro trends has undeniably fueled overconsumption and ultra fast fashion. With the media’s influence on fashion, widely-publicised and influential events like the Met Gala should focus less on ‘sleeping beauties’ and instead wake up and start promoting sustainability in the fashion industry.
The 2024 Met Gala is the first event to be sponsored by TikTok, a platform that arguably breeds micro trends and accelerates fashion cycles. The irony of TikTok sponsoring an exhibition focused on the conservation of historical garments is undeniable, considering how its algorithm is set up to showcase hundreds of posts depicting trends that probably will be seen as outdated before the end of the season. While social media can be a way of making fashion more accessible by acting as a source of outfit inspiration, it can be hard to find a balance between inspiration and an obsession with being ahead of trends. With our collective desire for instant gratification, it is hard for fashion and social media to coexist in a way that is not detrimental to both consumers and the planet.
The emphasis on textile conservation in this year’s theme follows Kim Kardashian wearing Marilyn Monroe’s iconic Bob Mackie dress in 2022. While this was controversial in many ways, it did show the widespread popularity in re-wearing vintage clothes. It goes without saying that the Met Gala does not represent the clothes we wear on a daily basis (although I am sure many of us would if we had the money), and the average person is more likely to find a Shein knockoff in a high street charity shop than a historically significant dress. The rise in low quality clothes in charity shops impacts those who rely on them the most, and it has become increasingly difficult for lower income people to find good pieces among the micro trends in a second hand market that is saturated with fast fashion.
Furthermore, the impact this has on the planet is detrimental, with these ‘outdated’ clothes often ending up in landfill if they cannot be sold. The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) predicts that emissions from textile production will increase by 60% by 2030, meaning that now is the time for companies and influencers alike to prioritise sustainability. The popularity of vintage clothing is something that should be timelessly celebrated, rather than a trend or a greenwashing shield for environmentally damaging brands to hide behind.
While it is great that the Metropolitan Museum of Art is focussing on sustainable and renewable conservation practices, it should be the responsibility of the fashion industry to follow suit. In this economy, it is basically impossible for the average person to spend a significant amount of money on one piece of clothing, and subsequently fast fashion is the only option for many. However, it should arguably be our job as viewers not to be influenced by what the internet considers out of fashion. Equally, companies should not use algorithms, where trends can drop off as quickly as they appear, to sell their products. The danger of buying into trends, without considering where the products will go after they are sold on Vinted or taken to the charity shop, not only impacts the environment but also speeds up trend cycles, landing fashion in a continuous downward spiral into poor quality pieces with a short shelf life.
After all, in the pursuit of pretend world peace, surely that’s what really matters?
Buying second-hand should afford people the opportunity to buy good quality clothes that one can wear timelessly without worrying about being in style. So, if the Met Gala says we should reawaken fashion, surely it is time we de-influence micro trends and instead invest in pieces that make us happy.